Cavalier cs-96 compressor resistance
Faza:
Hi
I'm making a start on restoring my Cavalier CS 96, I've removed the cooling unit and have it mounted on a platform.
It was purchased not working and wireing was badly perished so hasn't run for a long time.
Testing the compressor resistance with an ohm meter shows common to start 15 ohms common to run winding is 2 ohms. Can I have confirmation on whether the compressor is good or bad? If I'm lookingfor a replacement compressor I'm located in Australia so may be a bit of a search finding a 110volt unit.
Would like to retain the condenser and evaporator as they do seem to be in good condition.
I intend to replace the dryer and both fans .
Picture of compressor info tag is attached.
Cheers
John
Faza:
Bit of an update, this post by JohnieG seems to be similar , Compressor is a AP4111 Tecumseh 1/4hp.
http://soda-machines.com/discussions/index.php/topic,148.0.html
My 3in1 arrived today so I connected it and plugged it in, compressor kicked in straight away and the capillary tube where it enters the evaporator started to chill after about a minute.
Pretty happy that the original compressor works but the resistances are confusing me, should it be changed out whilst I have the cooling deck on the bench or are the resistances ok?
Cooling deck restore is pretty well stalled until I find out if compressor is ok.
Cheers
John
johnieG:
Hello & welcome to the site John ... :drinking: You quoteing my old post from back in 2002 is making me feel dated! :tounge: ( of perhaps more experienced is a better way to think of it)
Well it's good that it cranked over & is chilling anyway,
as I've found out over the many years of doing this hobby, compressor start & Run winding resistances can vary a bit even between seemingly identical compressors of the same model & size/horsepower ( or BTU) ratings, so don't sweat it, if the compressor successfully turns over & runs you're 75% out of the wood so to speak, more importantly is the system charge & running refrigerant (freon) pressures, of which in your case aren't going to be readily available to read due to the fact that your system is still as originally built with no external service ports visible to use to get a pressure reading out of anyway.
JohnieG
Faza:
Johnie thx for the confirmation that all is ok, I'll move on the restoring the deck.
How important is it to change the filter dryer? Is this normally done with these old machines.
Also I need to replace the evaporator and condenser fans, would like to source as much as I can locally in Australia to save on postage, can't seem to find a model/part number of the replacements.
johnieG:
A good question, & here's a fun fact, your system doesn't have one :wow: ( a filter-dryer) Vendo didn't seem fit to install them on the majority of the refrigeration decks on these machines they had manufactured, they used a small ( you'd never even know it was there unless you knew what you were looking at) inline fine filter-screen ( some call it a sieve) it's the size and shape of a pencil eraser & inserted into the inner tubing at the tail-end of the condensing coils line right where it seems to change diameter & connect to the capillary tube.
A new filter-dryer should always be installed when replacing an old compressor with a new unit, or when a sealed refrigeration system is opened for servicing such as a leak repair, etc., however since you aren't replacing your compressor, your service person would have to recover the old freon/R12 & cut open the service line at the high side where it exits the condensing coils & braze one inline, pull the system down to a high (deep) vacuum & recharge the system with the recycled R12 Freon or convert the system over to a more Enviro-frendly gas, ( I'd imagine that Old-stock or Virgin R12 is pricey if even still available down in Oz) it's not complicated to put one in, but it will cost you some coins...
the condensing fan motor is a standard "unit-bearing" type used in HVACR replacement & repair work, yours should be 120Volts AC/50-60Hz 1550 RPM, CW (clock-wise rotation as view from the shaft-end) if you cant find it locally, you might try online at your equivalent of Graingers supply company. https://www.grainger.com/product/EM-S-Shaded-Pole-Unit-Bearing-Motor-5YJN9?internalSearchTerm=Shaded+Pole+Unit+Bearing+Motor%2C+9+Output+Watts%2C+1550+Nameplate+RPM%2C+115+Voltage%2C+Frame%3A+Non-Standard&suggestConfigId=8&searchBar=true
The evaporator motor is an enclosed "air-over" style 3.3 inch diameter case, single shaft such as a Dayton MODEL 3M538BG 120Vac/1550 Rpm, 1/4" shaft diameter, such as Garingers model ( view link) https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-1-70-HP-3M538?internalSearchTerm=1%2F70+HP%2C+HVAC+Motor%2C+Shaded+Pole%2C+1550+Nameplate+RPM%2C+115+Voltage%2C+Frame+3.3&suggestConfigId=8&searchBar=true if you aren't sure of the rotation, you can get this motor type in a convertible model, it reverses it rotation by you removing the end-plated & flipping over the armature-shaft core & reassembling the end-plates. check online for the correct application.
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