Powder coating - polishing

[firemun]

OK, you pros help a novice out.  I am thinking of powder coating some of the interior pieces.  Here are a couple of questions:

1. What all do you guys powder coat?  I am thinking about the liner and shelves out of my 55 slider, the bottle stack, shelves, liner, and other various pieces of the 96.  I have 2 Cav 51s that I may do the ammo belt on.  I figure if I am gonna make the trip to the coater, I will take a load.

2. Do you all completely disassemble the bottle stack to have it done; there must be about 7 million pieces in that thing?

3. How do you prep?  I talked to a powder coater and he said have it chem stripped since it is zinc/galvanized otherwise the coating will bubble.  He did not recommend sand blasting.

4. How about the refrigeration, what do you use to polish the shine back into the copper lines.

5. Finally, check out the photos here on G.W. Smith’s site.  How in the world can you get in there to polish that bottle opener slot. Would you cut the spot weld out then re-attach afterwards?
Cav 96 at BITW

[Eric]

Well I'm new to this restoring too.
I just had the shelves, locking bars, door latches, springs, anything that get
a lot of wear and movement zinced and sealed. For my 81 and 72 It has a yellow-ish color to it.
(That is from the seal they put on it). I was told it was 96 hour tested coating.. Meaning a piece zinced and coated can
withstand a constant 96 hours spray of salt water before it begins to rust... and since I won't be
using these 24, 7 that was good enough for me.
I had the liner of my 39 powder coated since the original looked to be painted.... And I will have the front
bottle stacks powder coated white. the rest I will attamped to take apart and zinc plate...to me this is closer
to the original.

I do hear that powder coating is tough but can scratch.

And I do want to hear how others finish their machines and how do they chrome
that inner piece around the opener (I have a 72) will it slide out when you remove the opener?

Good Luck!
Eric

[firemun]

Eric,
Did you have to strip before having it plated?  Any idea how the price compares...zinc to powder coat?

I agree the zinc is original...and since it has lasted for 50 years it will outlast me if I re do it.  I just think some of the areas look good powder coated.
jeff

[BrianB]

Fellas -

I've had various peices powdercoated to include liners, bottle shelves, coin boxes, cap catchers, vend solenoid covers, bottle stack shelves, bottle stack face and various other moving and non-moving parts.

As far as prep for powdercoating goes, I have had to do ZERO prep work. A good powdercoat shop will have the proper prep fluids in a power washer. All the parts I have gotten back look awesome, no bubbling or any other flaws.

I have no clue why a powdercoater would tell you NOT to media/sandblast a part to prep. Blasting is probably the most preferable! It removes rust and build-up and also provides a satin smooth suface for whatever coating you desire. The part still needs to be "cleaned" using the prep solution they use.

Now, when it comes to having stuff re-chromed, remember one thing. It isn't cheap! The actual process of chrome plating is not hard. It all of the prep work and polishing after the plating is applied.

For an example of pricing, I submitted a Coin Entry Bezel for my Cavalier 55 (3" diameter) to my plater. That peice cost me $50 and took about two weeks to complete. It was well worth the money! I spent a a lot, I mean A LOT of time trying to find good work for a cheap price. When you sacrafice price, typically workmanship suffers. I finally settled with the company I deal with now and am as happy as a clam with them  '>

To shine copper refirgeration lines, I use a combination of steel wool, emory cloth and Neverdull (you can use Brasso too). For heavy verdigris (green corrosion) I start with steel wool and work my way from the heavy gauge to fine gauge steel wool. I then use Neverdull wadding and polish away! Takes a bit of elbow grease but the results are worth it! I also use a bare metal clear coat to protect the shine and prevent it from corroding ever again.

Let me know if you need any other info!

[firemun]

The powder coater I am talking with comes highly reccomended from some of the local NASCAR teams.   The reason he said not to sand blast was that it does not always get all the coating off.  He went on to say that chemical stripping was the only sure way to get zinc/galvanization off.  

Apparently, the heat from the powder coating causes the zinc to produce gas and cause bubbles.  Two other soda machine restorers have told me to watch out for that.  Again, I am not really versed in this area so I appreciate eveyone's input.

Thanks
Jeff

[Eric]

Yeah my 39 liner looks brand new and I had the heavy metal backing to the drum powder coated too. It cost me $75 for both. I sand blasted the heck out of both pieces first.

The zinc stuff they give a good ol' acid bath to strip everything..... Recomend not to
sand blast anything you zinc. You can see every where you blasted in the finish.

If I did the line to my 39 again I think I'd have the hammertone Powder coating done.
My had a few small places of pitting in the bottom nothing bad just bad enough to bother me.... The hammertone texture would have covered that right up......
If it drives me too crazy I may blast it and have it done again...

The zinc cost me $50 for the 81 shelves, latches, and locking bars. ($50 is the minimum)
So we're gonna see what it cost for the whole tub and some other parts... they should be done this Friday. I will keep you up dated and post images.

Anyone else?.... What do the rest of you guys do?.....

Eric
If it's just oxodized... the acid bath will strip it right off along with any other problem (rust).

Now I haven't rechromed anything yet... but yeah I hear that is $$$!

[MoonDawg]

The Cavalier 51 belt is aluminum. Will not do too well in heat of powdercoating.

[Eric]

Yes Glen is right! He seems to be always right....Hmmm maybe he has some experience in this filed!  '>

Aluminum will warp and can't zinc it cause of the
acid wash.... would'nt make it through...

I would say Simple Green and elbo grease on
the 51 “Ammo” Belt.....

Eric

[MoonDawg]

Thanks Eric. Your Dole dispenser is on it's way. On the Cavaliers, remove the bottle opener and the backing plate can be pryed out the bottom, and polished

[Eric]

Thanks Glen....
That backing plate on the 72... is it stainless or chromed?..... Mines in there pretty good.
Has anyone ever zinced the entire liner/tub?.... I'm having mine done but don't
know how I'm gonna react to all that yellow-ish color just getting impatiant now....
Want a restored machine now.........

Eric

[MoonDawg]

Bottle opener backing plate is stainless steel. I have never removed one of these easily.  Need to pry it down and out.   No need to worry about damage, they are found on square corner Cavaliers too.