Vf117b-h bench test

[BrianB]

Welp, my VF-117 that started my interest in soda pop machines is just about done. I completed restoring the refrigeration deck a few months back and have just been waiting for the body parts to be completed and it looks like that will be really soon. So, I decided to wire evrything up minus the bottle stack. (I just bypassed the vend switch and solenoid) I was really stoked to see my sign all lit up, The sign itself was in great shape. All of the yellow had flaked off behind the "Pepsi" portion, so I had to re-paint it.

[BrianB]

Here's a view of the evaporator

[BrianB]

Backside of the evaporator - did a little stop action photography! :'>

[BrianB]

A shot of the compressor

Wow, that's beautiful!
Great job.
Who needs the actual machine.
Just make cans roll off the table. '>

Great job, looks awfull.
Lars

Just kidding. It looks really great :'>

[Bob K]

Sweeeeet...  Cant wait to see the finished product.

[BryanH]

WOW!

I'm still waiting to get mine painted... so I need to ask.  How did you clean the copper so well?  What did you use (type and method) to paint the condensor and evaporator? '>

[BrianB]

Thanks guys! Well to answer the question about the copper, For the really corroded/heavy verdigris, I start with Steel Wool. I use 4 different gauges wroking my way down to 00 and then I move to Neverdull. All of the attention to detail stems from my tiem in the Navy. If can shine, it will! The big deal with copper and brass is you have to remember that it's very soft as metals go. When it comes to copper refrigeration lines, brass valve bodies and others in this category to much polishing over a long period will lead to material degridation, cut and dry. It all comes back to basic metalurgy. All of the polishing products have some sort of abrasive. It may be darn near microscopic but it is still there. There are however products that use citric acid as a main ingredient and it works well but is easier to use when the part to be polished can be dipped in the solution for lengthy periods (overnight).

On that note, In the Navy, we used to take a gallon bucket of hot water and a package of "Bug Juice" (similar to Kool Aid) and put the parts (Brass deck drains and fire station nozzles priimarily) into the bucket overnight to remove any serious corrosion/verdigris. You'd come back in the morning and use the equivelant to a Scotchbrite pad on em' and.....BAM!! Bright as new! And then we had our old stand-by's Brasso and Neverdull. But they became more and more difficult to keep due to Hazmat rules that exist.

Anyways! After I finish the polishing, I use a clear coat from Eastwood called "Diamond Clear" specifically designed for bare metal to keep it shining.

For the evaporator I use a mettalic silver paint and for the compressor I use a high heat (400 F) engine paint. I make sure that all of the rust/dirt/grease is gone by first blowing both coils out and then using a product I got from a local HVAC store called "Coil Blast" to get the fins/coils clean. If there is more than just light surface rust present, I remove all scale/flaking rust with a wire brush made just for compressor coils and then I dip the entire coil in an acid solution I got from the same HVAC place. That seems to take care of the rust. In addition, I make sure all of my coats of paint are VERY light. I've been told by a few select HVAC guys that what I am doing is wrong. That I should'nt paint anything. Well, I've had zero problems. It hasn't effected heat transfer in any way shape or form. I know a few other guys that use the same process as I do and they have zero problems too.

I guess if worse came to worse, Eric, from Global Compressors would be the guy to ask. He does restorations on decks and would most definitely know!