loman4ec
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« on: February 18, 2005, 06:57:17 pm » |
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I am getting started on my Selectivend 7up machine and one of my Cavalier 55's and I would like to know what everyone likes best for the insides of their machines. I am leaning toward zink since it is the closest to origional. Has anyone had any experience with zink plating? How much did it cost?
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Eric
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« Reply #1 on: February 20, 2005, 07:02:17 pm » |
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Zinc plating ...I'm in Missouri and there's a place near that said they'd run my stuff through with a order of theirs for $75. So I'm getting shelves ready to go. My 39 tub I'm going to Powder Coat. It was originally painted or coated with something? So the door liner and tub will be powder coated. I hear it is VERY tough. BITW powder coats their liners and tubs. I'd like to see what it would look like to zinc my 81 tub too. You're rigth it would be closest to original. I'll get back with you when I get pricing.... Anyone esle have an opion or experience?'>
Eric
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Eric
WANTED: Embossed Quikold Standard
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BrianB
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« Reply #2 on: February 20, 2005, 10:38:22 pm » |
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Powdercoating is by far the most durable. But of the three, For something as large a liner, I'd have to say that Powdercoating is also the most expensive. If you go with machine gray, it's one coat and 20 minutes later your done and out the door. If you go with silver, it was recommended to me to also get a clearcoat on top of that which in turn adds to the overall cost. I got my VF117B-H Liner and Bottle Stack/shelves and other knick knacks Powdercoated and it looks awesome. Unfortunately, I don't have a full-up price for it. I ended up getting most of it done for free for fixing the powdercoater's Choicevend machine! But I would estimate that for 14 shelves, 1 liner and the bottle stack it would be well over $300.00.
When it comes to Zinc plating, I haven't found anybody local to do it, so I substitute actual plating by Cold Galvanizing then clearcoating over it. Not quite as indestructible as powdercoating but much more durable and better looking in my opinion than liquid paint when it comes to the internals that were originally zinc'd.
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Brian
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Eric
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« Reply #3 on: February 24, 2005, 02:01:38 pm » |
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Getting my shelves for my 81 zinc-ed and cleared also the coin box for my 39 and some little parts.... Will photo and give you an update when they're done. This guy said he has had someone zinc the whole tub/liner to a soda machine.... If these look good and the price is right I may do the same and powder clear the tub after it's done? Has anyone done that? zinc-ed the powder coated clear?.....
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Eric
WANTED: Embossed Quikold Standard
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sodaworks
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« Reply #4 on: February 24, 2005, 10:45:58 pm » |
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I am sold on hammertone. I get great results with it and you cannot beat the price. It is very durable and if applied right, it looks great. Terry
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS Lots of Round Top machines Buy-Sell-Trade-Restorations
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Creighton
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« Reply #5 on: February 25, 2005, 03:06:33 am » |
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Great thread, Thanks guys, Terry, are you using rattle cans or what? Called around and couldn't find anybody that would zinc plate but it is CA. Had to show my ID today to buy rattle paint/primer cans for a Jeep suspension part that needs attention. Jees.... Please keep use posted on all findings. Creighton
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sodaworks
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« Reply #6 on: February 25, 2005, 01:21:58 pm » |
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If I am doing a rather small job I'll use a rattle can, but if I'm doing a tub or shelves anything of volume then I use my paint gun. I bead blast everything that will fit into my blasting cabinet. What doesn't fit I sandblast prior to painting.
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS Lots of Round Top machines Buy-Sell-Trade-Restorations
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joesquid
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« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2005, 01:10:51 pm » |
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Terry, Where do you get hammertone paint for spray-guns? I've only seen it in cans but would love to use it in my sprayer. I like it too....very tough finish and a whole lot cheaper than powdercoating!
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Eric "Joe Squid" Johnson
1955 Vendo 23 - awaiting restoration 1959 Westinghouse WC-44SK - awaiting parts 1967 Cavalier CS-64G - functional in house 1969 Vendo 63 - in restoration
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Jim
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« Reply #8 on: February 27, 2005, 02:12:26 pm » |
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Eric, here's some information found at their web site: Hammerite Rust Cap
Call our technical service department (866-774-6371) for the Hammerite Rust Cap retailer closest to you. If my memory serves me, I used Hammerite Silver Gray
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My six cents, Jim
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BryanH
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« Reply #9 on: February 27, 2005, 04:41:57 pm » |
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Joe - there have been several discussions on hammertone over the last month... Search the forums, there were several good points in each. I've also found that my Lowes says they can special order it in quarts or gallons (4 per order). Still waiting for a price. Also found a site with pretty detailed instructions on how to spray it --> here
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Thanks, Bryan Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration? GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
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BryanH
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« Reply #10 on: March 01, 2005, 05:16:07 pm » |
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For those of you with hammerite experience -> have you applied it directly to galvanized parts or did you use their primer first?
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Thanks, Bryan Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration? GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
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Eric
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« Reply #11 on: March 01, 2005, 05:29:28 pm » |
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Ace Hardware carries Hammertone in qt and gallon cans.... At least here in Missouri....
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Eric
WANTED: Embossed Quikold Standard
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BryanH
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« Reply #12 on: March 02, 2005, 11:45:35 am » |
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Well I gave up on Lowe's and gave up on finding Hammerite locally. Called Merit Paint 800-726-5639 (out of NC) and ordered the silver grey ($42.64 / gal) and some galvanized primer (12.45 / qt). Even after shipping the prices were better than my local ACE Hardware's prices for Rustoleum Hammertone.
I sure hope spraying it is easier than finding it! If I'm lucky I'll have it in time to try it this weekend.
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Thanks, Bryan Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration? GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
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sodaworks
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« Reply #13 on: March 03, 2005, 02:08:19 pm » |
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I don't use the primer. I clean the liners and tubs using a steam cleaner and sos pads. Then using my sandblaster I give a light blasting to give the paint some adhession. I hold the nozzle back about 2 feet (my compressor operates @ 150 psi) and I keep it moving to avoid metal distortion by heating the metal. As far as appling the paint, I spray down the first coat and wait about 10 minutes for it to just start tacking. Then I spray the second at a 90 degree angle from the first coat. I have found that I get the best results spraying it using this technique. I also thin the hammertone with reducer to get the desired fan spray from my gun, I'm guessing around 15-20% reducer added. I add the reducer used from cleaning my gun right back into the unused portion of the paint to eliminate waste. hope this helps. Terry
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS Lots of Round Top machines Buy-Sell-Trade-Restorations
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sodaworks
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« Reply #14 on: March 03, 2005, 02:10:07 pm » |
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I order my hammerite from a automotive paint retailer. I use the silver gray color. Terry
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS Lots of Round Top machines Buy-Sell-Trade-Restorations
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BrianB
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« Reply #15 on: March 03, 2005, 03:28:05 pm » |
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Terry, Just a suggestion, To prevent metal distortion it's been recommended to me by Steve Jebb from Soda Jerk Works and a fella from Antique Vending that you shouldn't use any more than 80 psi with a 50 mesh media. Anything higher and you are toying with disaster. Normally I rely on my own experience, but when a suggestion from a guy that's been restoring machines as long as Steve has, I tend to follow his lead. But, this is just a suggestion.
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Brian
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