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Author Topic: USS-8-64 First Machine  (Read 10054 times)
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davestar
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« on: July 30, 2013, 03:22:12 pm »

So, My first machine is here now, and in the basement.  It has sat overnight and I started it up with great excitement.   NOW LET THE STUPID NEWBIE QUESTIONS BEGIN!!  When I started it up, the refrigeration came on fine, and it seems to cool and vend correctly.   I was able to change the price, and the mech had no problem.  The question I had was the florescent light in the door, and the exact change only lights did not come on.   The florescent light didn't even flicker.   I was wondering if there was a switch or a fuse that controlled the lights on the machine.  I would guess the exact change light would be on a different circuit, as it is used differently. 

I have the steel marquis sign, I believe the starter and ballast are behind that sign.  Any tips on how to get the sign off?
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Dave
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« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2013, 03:28:27 pm »

Check this post:

http://soda-machines.com/discussions/index.php/topic,13546.0.html
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« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2013, 03:34:33 pm »

The CSS I had included the lighted marquee. There is a old style transformer ballast mounted on the back of a metal plate holding the sockets and bulb. I don't remember where the starter is mounted. WARNING: This ballast takes 120VAC "house current" for power. Do NOT fiddle with it or touch it while the machine is plugged in!

I've found that the fluorescent bulb burns out every couple of months or so, and they are several dollars apeice at WalMart. If it goes bad, there is a very good chance it will toast your fingers if you try to remove it with the machine plugged in.

« Last Edit: July 30, 2013, 03:37:43 pm by Pixel » Logged
davestar
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« Reply #3 on: July 30, 2013, 04:08:32 pm »

Thanks guys, i was able to get the marquis out after I took a better look.   The ballast and the starter were behind the sign.  Is the starter supposed to wiggle back and forth in its socket very easily?  Is that a sign of a bad starter or socket?   Also, it is really surprising that light goes out every couple of months.  That must have kept those service guys jumping, because it doesn't look too easy to replace.   Thanks for the replies.
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Dave
kbareit
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« Reply #4 on: July 30, 2013, 04:28:47 pm »

I'd start by making sure there is power to the light circuit then replace the starter and bulb. to replace the starter push it in and gently turn counter clockwise. When getting a replacement bulb make sure you get the right one. most bulbs at that time were T-12 bulbs a T-8 will light up but burn out quickly. The T-12 is larger in diameter than a T-8. I have a few machines that had T-8's in them and after putting the correct bulb in and replacing the starter I have not had any problems with the light's.
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« Reply #5 on: July 30, 2013, 05:32:54 pm »

I didn't know that, I've been replacing the bulb with what was in it when I bought it, an F5T8? Does it need an F5T12?
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kbareit
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« Reply #6 on: July 30, 2013, 06:02:29 pm »

That might be why they are not lasting. Get a T-12 and a new starter and you should get more than a couple months out of a bulb. My Pepsi Vendo has been operating everyday for a year now with the same bulb without any problems.
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« Reply #7 on: July 30, 2013, 09:24:15 pm »

When you replace the bulb, does it ever burn your fingers? Can I use the same spec starter?
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cola62
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« Reply #8 on: July 31, 2013, 06:38:21 am »

You are correct about the bulb. My Vendo 63 uses a T-12. It has been burning every day for 5 years with no problem.  There is a good chance your ballast could be bad.  You can order a new one from RobertsonDirect.com.  A bad ballast will fry a bulb in a second.   Just be sure you get the correct ballast for the bulb you are burning.  To answer your other question, a starter should not be that loose.  You push and turn them clockwise to install opposite to take out.  It will wiggle a little when it is in position. Replace the starter and  bulb and go from there.
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Greg
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« Reply #9 on: July 31, 2013, 11:13:58 am »

My later sixties vintage Cavalier CSS-64-GC uses according the factory label affixed to the light a F8W/T5 bulb;

The other thing to consider is the starter itself. When I got mine the starter installed was a FS-2, which is overrated and will cause a short bulb life. The correct starter is a FS-5 for that bulb. Just another factor to consider when looking at these things and short bulb life. Note that the starters are all physically interchangeable; So just because the starter fits and works doesn't mean its rated correctly for the bulb.

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davestar
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« Reply #10 on: August 04, 2013, 08:30:19 am »

Well, I replaced the light, and got it to work.  Has anyone installed a toggle switch in the change door to select whether the light is on or off?  I think that would be doable, and I might try that.  Thanks for all of the great feedback, I appreciate it.  This board has great folks.
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Dave
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« Reply #11 on: August 04, 2013, 03:24:39 pm »

Hi davestar,

I have a USS-96 with a manual,  I'm thinking of put a switch in for the serving door light as well. I'll probably put the switch on the hot of the AC line side of the ballast (located under the external door ) of the  lamp circuit. see drawing.

let me know if you have and questions or concerns

Ray
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1954 Stoner Senior
1964 United Orbit shuffle bowler   
1973 Cavalier USS-96
1976 Atari Night Driver
1979 Space Invaders Deluxe
1980 Centipede Cabaret (60in1)
1984 Williams Laser Cue Pinball
1993 IGT Wild Cherry Slot
1996 Police Trainer
2016 Visual Pinball Machine
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tkaz
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« Reply #12 on: August 04, 2013, 07:25:28 pm »

I'll have to see if I can find a photo of the switch I put in my USS64, I wired in a DPST switch so I could shut off the lights in our media room when we wanted it dark for a movie.  Mounted it in the metal shield on top of the ballast in the coin door area.
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Roadman
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« Reply #13 on: August 06, 2013, 05:49:54 pm »

My USS64 bulb also flickered. I had a new bulb, transformer, and starter installed and it's been fine.  They are relatively inexpensive.
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boss
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« Reply #14 on: August 08, 2013, 08:33:36 pm »

I'll have to see if I can find a photo of the switch I put in my USS64, I wired in a DPST switch so I could shut off the lights in our media room when we wanted it dark for a movie.  Mounted it in the metal shield on top of the ballast in the coin door area.

I'd love to see this too.  I just got a USS-8-64K and would like to shut off the lights at certain times.
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davestar
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« Reply #15 on: August 10, 2013, 08:36:45 am »

Ray,
     Thank you for the diagram, it works fine.   I was able to mount a 1/4" radio shack SPST switch (275-0324) in the door.  My USS is a steel sign type, so my starter and ballast are under where normally there would be the light up sign.  In this case I removed the ballast and starter bracket, and the separating tray, and then drilled a 1/4" hole, in between the connector, and the ballast.  I then remounted the bottom tray, the ballast/starter bracket, cut the wire between the ballast and the connector, added two quick connects from Radio Shack (6403058), crimped, put them on the switch and closed up.  It works great, the only caveat is that it if the light is running, and you turn it off, you will need to wait a while to flick it back on, or I believe the starter doesn't re-fire, and then the light flickers something terrible.  
« Last Edit: August 10, 2013, 08:48:20 am by davestar » Logged

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Dave
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« Reply #16 on: August 10, 2013, 12:00:55 pm »

Great job, glad it worked out for you... also if you every need to replace that transformer they sell them at Home Depot.
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1954 Stoner Senior
1964 United Orbit shuffle bowler   
1973 Cavalier USS-96
1976 Atari Night Driver
1979 Space Invaders Deluxe
1980 Centipede Cabaret (60in1)
1984 Williams Laser Cue Pinball
1993 IGT Wild Cherry Slot
1996 Police Trainer
2016 Visual Pinball Machine
Member : Michigan Mafia
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