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johnnyselman
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« on: February 21, 2011, 08:32:02 pm » |
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Hi Guys, I'm new to the forums and to drink machines for that matter! I mainly collect pinball machines but thought I would try my hand at a drink machine. Just wanted to share some pics of my progress so far. The end is in sight!! Also want to say thanks to Janet and Rod for parts and ideas. And "Coke and Stuff" Joey for the nice cabinet as mine had a couple rusted out vents. Unfortunatly I am no good at posting pics so heres a link to my album. http://s373.photobucket.com/albums/oo174/countdownpin/7up%20VMC%20110/ |
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collecture
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« Reply #1 on: February 21, 2011, 08:42:51 pm » |
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Welcome and looks great so far!
What did you do to the bottle gates? They look new!
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Cav 27, 33, CS-55E-2, 72
S-48 DP
Ideal CC 35, Barq's 55
1930s DP Counter Cooler
Vendo Coin Changers (ea. style - orig w/ stand)
Vendo Junior (rest.), 23 Deluxe, 39D, 44, 56RT, 80SS, 81A (orig), 81D, 6 C.V.
VMC 27, 27A, 81D DP, 110 DP
Westy WC-42-T, WC-44SK, WD-5(2), WB60
Victor C-14
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Creighton
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« Reply #2 on: February 21, 2011, 09:22:21 pm » |
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Great Job!!
Where did you find the cleaner materials on page 2?
Thanks!
Creighton
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johnnyselman
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« Reply #3 on: February 21, 2011, 09:44:11 pm » |
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The bottle gate assemble was acid dipped (the Aluminum brighter). As was the other parts that were zinc,galvanized and cad plating. It's not super strong stuff. It won't eat your fingers off or nothing but you need to wear gloves and eye protection. You can find it at most auto parts stores. It will also eat rust. The bottle gate will get a black residue on it but that will just wire brush off . You just completing sumerge the part and keep an eye on it. Once the coating is gone rinse very well with water and dry. On the steel parts you will need to dry well very quickly or flash rust will appear. With fresh brighter the bottle gates assemble take 10 to 15 minutes. And the galvanized bottle shelfs take 20-30 minutes. You can put as many as you can get in whatever container you choose. I stripped them like this because I'm going to power coat it all. Its a shame becuase like you said it looks brand new but it is all just bare metal.
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tkaz
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« Reply #4 on: February 21, 2011, 10:31:39 pm » |
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Wow, looks great...you got my attention with that cleaner. I wonder if a clear coat on the shelves would hold up ok in the machine, they look great when they come out. Great work!
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David D
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« Reply #5 on: February 21, 2011, 10:35:57 pm » |
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very nice work, looks great
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Jim
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« Reply #6 on: February 22, 2011, 07:00:44 am » |
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Johnny,
Everything looks great!
I'm starting to break down my V-81 vending rack and I like the results of your dipped the parts! Can you supply the product name used to dip the parts...?
Thanks!
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My six cents, Jim  |
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johnnyselman
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« Reply #7 on: February 22, 2011, 07:23:03 am » |
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Wow, looks great...you got my attention with that cleaner. I wonder if a clear coat on the shelves would hold up ok in the machine, they look great when they come out. Great work!
Yea I was was thinking the same thing. I'm going to do some research on clear powder coating bare metal. I'm afraid there may be adhesion problems. |
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johnnyselman
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« Reply #8 on: February 22, 2011, 07:30:04 am » |
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Johnny,
Everything looks great!
I'm starting to break down my V-81 vending rack and I like the results of your dipped the parts! Can you supply the product name used to dip the parts...?
Thanks!
Hi Jim, It is call "aluminum brighter". Sold at auto parts stores. I got some at O'reileys. Our Advance auto parts did not have it. Its around $ 10 a gallon. The last pics it the album show the jugs. |
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collecture
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« Reply #9 on: February 22, 2011, 06:58:37 pm » |
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Yea I was was thinking the same thing. I'm going to do some research on clear powder coating bare metal. I'm afraid there may be adhesion problems. Wouldn't you have an issue poweder coating parts that need to move or pivot? |
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Cav 27, 33, CS-55E-2, 72
S-48 DP
Ideal CC 35, Barq's 55
1930s DP Counter Cooler
Vendo Coin Changers (ea. style - orig w/ stand)
Vendo Junior (rest.), 23 Deluxe, 39D, 44, 56RT, 80SS, 81A (orig), 81D, 6 C.V.
VMC 27, 27A, 81D DP, 110 DP
Westy WC-42-T, WC-44SK, WD-5(2), WB60
Victor C-14
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johnnyselman
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« Reply #10 on: February 22, 2011, 08:42:16 pm » |
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Wouldn't you have an issue poweder coating parts that need to move or pivot?
Wont be able to powder coat the bottle gate assembly but should be able to do the other parts. I talk to a guy that sells powder. He said it would be no problem to clear powder coat bare metal. We'll see I guess as I'm going to try my hand at powder coating this weekend. ,Johnny |
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« Last Edit: February 22, 2011, 08:46:18 pm by johnnyselman »
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SIGNGUY
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« Reply #11 on: February 23, 2011, 09:23:29 am » |
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Powder coating is great, but like Tom Said, dont' powder coat parts that need to fit tightly with one another.. there is too much build up generally and parts won't fit or pivot correctly, like bottle gates.
on the stack you can powder, the faceplate, the shoes, the back support spine.
I usually zinc plate the rest, and usually the back support spine.
Look forward to your progress.
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Soda Machine Enthusiast since 1996!
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johnnyselman
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« Reply #12 on: February 27, 2011, 08:47:23 pm » |
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Got the bottle rack done this weekend. Powder coated everything but the gate assembies and stainless side. Debating if I want to powder coat the shelves. They are a tight fit in the oven. I had previously used a product called "zolatone" on the shelves,liner and door cover so I hate to redo the shelves.The place next door to my work builds firetrucks and they use zolatone on the inside of the boxes. They say its very durable. I kinda like the contrast between all the different parts. The pics make the shelves look white but the are a metal gray with white specks. I added some pics to the album.
,Johnny
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mznb1u
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« Reply #13 on: February 28, 2011, 06:53:12 am » |
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Looking good!  Tim |
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brasskey
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« Reply #14 on: September 28, 2011, 10:53:00 pm » |
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Does anyone have a paint code on this darker green that used in newer 7-up restorations? I tried PMing the original poster but he hasn't gotten back to me. I'm looking to do a square top Cavalier in either this 7-up green or the old Dr. Pepper green. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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johnnyselman
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« Reply #15 on: September 29, 2011, 06:31:50 am » |
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Hi, Sorry I missed your PM. I used 7up dark green 33217. I used BASF R-M line paint.
,Johnny
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brasskey
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« Reply #16 on: September 29, 2011, 11:03:06 am » |
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Hi, Sorry I missed your PM. I used 7up dark green 33217. I used BASF R-M line paint.
,Johnny
Thanks so much Johnny. I'll let you know if I end up using it. |
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BONOVOX
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« Reply #17 on: September 30, 2011, 04:30:25 pm » |
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ask and u shall recieve  THIS BOARD IS GREAT  |
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I HAVE A PROBLEM.....
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