1951 Seeburg B

[zadd]

What's it worth in orgional working condition ? Thinking about selling my vendo 110 for one .

[VMC 81]

really depends on the condition. If the Seeburg and Vendo were in comparable condition I would take the Seeburg over the 110

[BrianB]

If the "B" is in 100% working and COMPLETE, I would give between $600-$1200. If the original Zebrawood overlay is in excellent shape and doesn't require removal and the addition of either paint or wood veneer plus being physically complete & working, I would consider giving close to full price.

Some of the most common missing items and their apprx. replacement cost:

Turntable Mechanism Cover: $45-60
Coin Mechanism: $40-$95
Coin Chute: $9-$15
Back Door (Upper): $30-$75
Back Door (Lower): $30-$75
Speaker:$80-$125

You get the idea.

[Kilroy]

I agree with Brian about price and parts. I'd also ask if the amp has been recapped, and  plan to do so if it's original

[zadd]

Guys asking $800 obo . Says its all original just needs a good cleaning because it came from a smokie room . He also says it needs a new needle and the selection button arms need cleaned because not all of them work . But it does play some selection. Body looks to be in great shape and its all there . Any thoughts? I'll post some pics tonight . 

[zadd]

what do you think ?

[VMC 81]

Looks to be pretty complete I would think it is worth the $800 so if you can get it for anything less that would be a bonus.

[David D]

Looks to be in pretty decent shape, they are great machines. I picked my B up for $380 four years ago, it was complete but in rough shape.   At the time I didn't know anything about jukes but looking back I think I got a pretty good deal.

[BrianB]

The finish looks to be redone, other than that it looks decent.

When you say that not all of the "selection buttons" work that could mean a few different things. Anything from the Electrical Selctor (Selection Buttons) being bad meaning a dirty or misaligned contact or broken wire. Next down the line is the actual cable itself that terminates at the Selection Reciever via a Cinch Plug (AKA: Jones Plug") Sometimes there are pinched or broken wires in the bundle or a dirty plug blade/socket.

The next most likely canidate to cause a problem like that is the Pinbank. The Pinbank is comprised of a bunch of coils and levers that correlate directly to the selection made on the Electrical Selector. After almost 60 years of work and abuse they always need a good cleaning. Checking these things will more than likely solve the problem. Overall, pretty cheap to fix. You just need to invest some "sweat equity"!

The amp on the "B" is really durable. Have all of the capacitors replaced regardless of age unless it was recently recapped. Also, check all resistors to make sure that they are within tolerance. You also want to replace the Selenium Rectifier. If you turn the amp over, you will see a component that looks like a stack of rectangular metal squares with a couple of wires connected to it. The Selenium Rectifier converts AC power to DC power. When they get old they either outright fail or they start to get flakey. By flake I mean that when you test it by itself it seems fine but when it's under a load, your jukebox playing, it takes a crap on you. They are cheap to replace at around $5 and are available at Radio Shack as a "Full Wave Bridge Rectifer" they even have a hole in the center to facilitate chassis mounting just like the original.

It's always good to have somebody that knows these amps to do the work if you aren't to sure about doing it yourself. The amp in my "B" worked ok when I got it prior to restoration. It was only later and through another set of eyes that I found out that my amp had been partially updated to a newer revision. When I say partially I mean that the tech who was doing the work didn't finish the job. I recapped my entire amp and also replaced the caps on my Selection Reciver to include the Cancel Credit Unit (CCU). Make sure to clean the contacts as well.

Try to get it for less by citing the work it will take to track down the selection problem plus how much it will cost to re-cap it to make it safe to play.

Good luck and let us know how it goes! (Try $725!!)

[VMC 81]

As for recapping if you are handy at all you can do the work yourself as most kits will come with directions and pictures to ones that need to be replaced. I did my C myself and it came out fine. If you do send it out they will want the volume switch shipped with the amp. My VL200 still has it's original caps in it and works just fine.

[zadd]

Still working a couple deals out but if everything goes right I should get it tommorrow for $700

[VMC 81]

good job

[mznb1u]

Isn't the Selenium Rectifier the part that makes time travel possible? 

  Tim

[VMC 81]

no that was the flux capacitor

[zadd]

Got it home . Sounds pretty good . Needs a lot of cleaning . And some 45's . The selections that don't work make a loud clicking noise . I'll try what you guys suggested and give it a good cleaning . Any good sites for info and manual for this model ?

[Kilroy]

Victory Glass  does a good job on the manuals (victoryglass.com) I've been burned too many times saving a buck   on ebay, and getting poorly photocopied  booklets, or Cd's with scans that you can't read.

For records, try oldies.com. New (as in new pressings) and most with two hits per 45, and about $2.50 a record.  
and welcome to the  Jukebox club

[bubba]

+1 for Victory... they are great guys and their manuals, parts and tech advice are great..

[zadd]

Thanks guys . Can't wait to tear into this new toy and learn all I can on it . Shows very well right now just going to replace a few things and clean it up for now .

[zadd]

After moving this juke a few times I have popped off some textured paint and it revealed the tiger veneer . Is there a way to remove the textured coat ? High pressure air ?

[Creighton]

Hey Zadd,
What kind of paint is it? If el-cheapo latex hair dryer may work. Oil/lead based could be tough. Pics?
Creighton

[sodaworks]

Your gonna love that "B" model. Mine looks and works great.

[BrianB]

I whole-heartedly second Terry's opinion of how the "B" sounds, my family loves it, especially around this time of year when it's playing Christmas music!

Let us know if you need any help! with anything. Cabinet, electrical, mechanical, whatever! 

[Kilroy]

it's most likely  latex paint over the zebra wood, would love to know why so many jukes of this era were painted over with what we call  'Trunk Paint', the speckled textured stuff that was used in the car trunks of the 50's and 60's.  Use heat carefully, I'm not a fan of the zebra wood underneath, but I can understand you wanting to preserve it
Since there is already a section that bubbled,  have you tried (carefully) a plastic scraper? It would be tedious, but beats veneering.
And as Brian Said, Let us know if you need help.  There's nothing like  pulling a bottle of pop out of our machine while listening to your Jukebox =)

[zadd]

Has anybody had any luck removing the texter paint ? I think the sides will be easy. Its the smaller areas I worrie about . I might try some heat and see what it does . One more question  . It apears my machine is missing a panel that covers the fluorescent light . Whats it called so I can find one . Thanks

[MCarter]

The defuser glass? Victory sells those.

[VMC 81]

Be careful using a heat gun as the original "wood" vinyl will come off. This is very thin material and it will not take much to make it bubble.

[zadd]

I have the glass . I looks like a interior panel that's missing or something so you don't see the light in the back mirrors (like the embossed diamond pattern) . I ordered a manual tonight from Victory so will see if anything is missing .

[BrianB]

The only two pieces that sit between the bulb and the Turntable Mechanism are the Diffuser Glass, like Matt mentioned, and the white grill panel that sits directly beneath it. The other two items that are directly below it are the Color Tray (Animation) and the Lower Glass which allows the color diffused light from the animation to project onto the poliches stainless or chrome grill bars.

In the picture, you will notice that the Diffuser Glass is missing, se the channel that it sits in? Look directly below that and you will see the grill that I am talking about.

[zadd]

Yea it looks like I'm missing the diffuser panel that sets in the channel and I'm missing the color tray because my chrome strips have been painted . Time to do some shopping .    Thanks again .

[BrianB]

No prob!!

[sodaworks]

I painted mine using the Zeletone "trunk paint". I used a a light grey with splatter. It looks great. I didn't care for the wood grain.

[BrianB]

I veneered mine and poly'd it.