SGM
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« on: October 07, 2008, 09:34:19 pm » |
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I saw this in the tips forum but thought I'd post it in here with most of my other posts. I agree with G-Pope that when you condense any R-Value insulation you loose actual R-Value. I've started to re-insulate the body with FoamulaR polystyrene insulation made by Owens Corning. R-Value of 5 for 1 inch, I have 2 1/2 on the sides and about 3 inches on the top, bottom and back. Going together nicely and I don't see there being any issue with putting the tank back in when I'm complete with the insulation install. Hope I didn't make a mistake by using it, we'll see, I think I'll be ok, I think I have science on my side  SGM |
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Randy
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bmw90w
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« Reply #1 on: October 11, 2008, 12:55:05 am » |
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that looks great man! I plan to use the same stuff. Have you had luck with bending it at all?
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Vendo 39
Vmc 56 Faygo Transitional
Cavalier CS-96
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SGM
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« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2008, 02:27:56 pm » |
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Yes and no on the bending. It will only bend to a certain point before it does break. I recommend starting by putting the insulation in the sides first. I started with installing 3 panels on the back and had a clearance issue when it came to putting the side panels in. If you put the side panels in first you shouldn't have any issue. When I put the tank back in last night it fit like a glove, even squeaked when it slid back in so I don't beleive there is much if any gap between the insulation and the tank.
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Randy
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collecture
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« Reply #3 on: October 11, 2008, 04:22:58 pm » |
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That looks nice!!
I think that would be great for any squaretop machine...did you seal the corners with anything?
I guess you could do the bottom and sides of a round top machine with it??
What did you do with the drain hole? Wasn't there an extension welded to the bottom of the liner?
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Cav 27, 33 embossed, CS-55E-2, 72
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SGM
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« Reply #4 on: October 11, 2008, 09:02:57 pm » |
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I used silicone for all the seams and corners. The drain comes from underneath the frame and is secured from the underside. There is a little cup that tilts when it gets to full and dumps it into the pan on the bottom. It was just pushed up againsts the flange on the bottom of the tank with a whole bunch of tar. I just need to make the hole through the insulation and I'll silicone it and fasten the way it originally was. Permanently fastening it to the tank while it was out would have been a good idea though. Maybe next time.
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Randy
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Pat Pixley
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« Reply #5 on: October 11, 2008, 10:09:11 pm » |
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Looks good so far Randy , I may do that on my LaCrosse when I get to that point. I would like to know the results when you get it all back together and cooling .  |
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SGM
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« Reply #6 on: October 12, 2008, 01:47:27 am » |
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Thanks Pat, I sure will let you know how the insulation works when it's back up and running.
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Randy
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Jim
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« Reply #7 on: October 12, 2008, 05:28:15 am » |
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Permanently fastening it to the tank while it was out would have been a good idea though. This may cause an issue with installing the liner; it may be best to re-install the drain tube after the liner is installed... This insulation will definitely keep things efficient! Looks good ! ! ! |
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My six cents, Jim  |
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collecture
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« Reply #8 on: October 12, 2008, 10:07:22 am » |
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There is a little cup that tilts when it gets to full and dumps it into the pan on the bottom. It was just pushed up againsts the flange on the bottom of the tank with a whole bunch of tar. I forgot you were dealing with a Cavalier. |
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Cav 27, 33 embossed, CS-55E-2, 72
SelectiVend 48 DP
1930s DP Counter Cooler(Restored)
Glasco 50
Vendo Coin Changers (ea. style-nice orig w/ stand)
Vendo Junior (rest.), 23 Deluxe, 39D, 56RT, 80SS, 81A (nice orig), 6 C.V.
VMC 27, 27A, 81D DP, 110 DP
Westinghouse WC-44SK, WD-5, WB60
Victor C-1
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SGM
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« Reply #9 on: October 12, 2008, 03:03:32 pm » |
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After looking at it again I don't think it's possible to permanently mount the drain tube before installing the tank. Would be nice though to be able to do so.
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Randy
CSS 12-96J
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