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Author Topic: Getting started restoring a VMC 27  (Read 1485 times)
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spitzme
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« on: February 22, 2008, 07:48:16 am »

Just purchased a rough VMC 27 A?B?  What is the best way to get started?  What should I attack first and how do I reproduce the logos and paint?
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davethebirdman
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« Reply #1 on: February 22, 2008, 08:10:05 am »


Hi Yaand welcome to the site....

Have you got any pictures of your new baby??

Does it run and cool properly???

How much time and money do you want to invest in your project??

Is it a complete back to metal restoration or simply a smarting up job??

What are you going to be doing yourself and what are you going to get others to do??

There are apint codes listed on the site but really I wouldn't get to hung up about the absolutely right tone of paint for your machine. I let my wife pick the last shade.

The logos (decals) can be purchased from funtronics (for coke) and from Soda Jerk Works if you are lucky enough to have a pepsi version.

If you decide to strip the machine make sure you take lots of photos. Its not rocket science BUT it certainly comes in handy when you have bits left over and you can't remember where they go.

What I would say (and Ifound this out to my cost) before you strip down make sure the machine works properly. Its not point having a great shell if nothing works inside.

Before you do turn it on make sure the wiring is of a good standard. You don't want this to be your last project. Even if it looks good it might be worthwhile changing it. Not sure if this model has a wiring harness that can be purchased from the sponsers. Someone else will know. If it does then that's a good start.

Welcome aboard....

Dave
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One V-39 the good old faithful
 Jacobs 50 - Feeling sorry for itself in the garage
V-56 - back from the dead
Wurly 1900 - Blasting away
Rockola Empress - Gleaming like new
Seeburg JL - A bit tempremental (Like its owner)
Couple of Candy wall hangers
Couple of Seeburg Wallboxes
spitzme
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« Reply #2 on: February 22, 2008, 08:45:10 am »

Thanks so much for the welcome and info!  It is a mess.  We are talking complete restore over the next decade.  (my wife wants to keep me busy)  I am going to try to do everything I can by myself, including some metal work.  Does not power up.. and I will have to replace the compressor and who knows what else.  If I end up making it a neat looking display/non-functional piece, then so be it.  It will still be fun!
Here is a pic...
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SIGNGUY
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« Reply #3 on: February 22, 2008, 09:27:22 am »

Welcome to the site... you'll be able to get all the help you need (information wise) from these guys...
Looks like it'll be a good machine, little cancer near the bottom, which will take some metal work...
Like Dave said, take lots of photos as you begin dissasembly...
and being your first ,get a few boxes of ziplock baggies and a marker and as you take peices off and screws and such,,, bag them up and label the bags... then keep you bags seperate (door parts) , (inside parts), etc... that will help on the reassembley or if you have to matchup screws and such with ones that need to be replaced with new ones, etc.

Paint and decals will be the easy part... looks like your challenge will be body work and figuring out thecompressor...

Good luck
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SIGNGUY
Bunch of Coke Machines
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davethebirdman
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« Reply #4 on: February 22, 2008, 09:44:00 am »


Have you checked out the wring to that compressor of yours...

Is everything dead... Fans etc...

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One V-39 the good old faithful
 Jacobs 50 - Feeling sorry for itself in the garage
V-56 - back from the dead
Wurly 1900 - Blasting away
Rockola Empress - Gleaming like new
Seeburg JL - A bit tempremental (Like its owner)
Couple of Candy wall hangers
Couple of Seeburg Wallboxes
MoonDawg
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« Reply #5 on: February 22, 2008, 12:28:40 pm »

       We are very doubtful that the compressor is bad. Most likely only a fanmotor
problem. Dave is right, get it cooling and vending so you understand how it works
before you disassemble.
      You have a nice straight machine to start with, hope the rest of the base is
in better shape than the front as far as rust. I have a nice cabinet if you need one.
       Ask for help anytime, especially drum removal and re-install.

      The picture enclosed if for motivation  happydrinkers
« Last Edit: February 22, 2008, 12:35:12 pm by MoonDawg » Logged

Glen
spitzme
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« Reply #6 on: February 22, 2008, 12:45:19 pm »

Thanks so much for the ideas!  I really appreciate it.  Unfortunately, the side is worse than the front.  It is rusted through, so I am going to get very acquainted with metal working!
I will post more questions as they come up.  I love the motivational picture!  Thanks again guys!
-Mike


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MoonDawg
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« Reply #7 on: February 22, 2008, 01:07:02 pm »

      I kept this empty shell just for someone like you. You can have it if you can get it
picked up in Southern California. I would hate to send it to scrap metal.
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Glen
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« Reply #8 on: February 22, 2008, 01:21:53 pm »

Glen... That is awesome of you!!!!! Grab that cabinet Spitzme! A lot of time saved there
and money... I used FedEx ground to get a cooler from ND to MO and there are others
that have used other freight companies. may save you money and definantely time in
the long run! Keep us posted on the project! And welcome to the board.
I've noticed a few new members have joined in the last couple months we may need a
Who's Who on the board. Welcome... hope you stick around... if you like ol' soda machines
you're on THE best site... great guys (and a few gals) here...
Again...Welcome!
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Eric

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Pepsi Double Dot Quikold Standard
davethebirdman
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« Reply #9 on: February 22, 2008, 02:09:52 pm »



I can only echo what Eric has said.... Grab that cabinet... Glen's a top guy..

Take your time and by the summer you'll have a lovely fully restored vending machine that will be the envy of everyone.

That compressor I'm sure is simple wiring and perhaps a re-charge...


How about that.. You make your first post and you have people throwing stuff at ya..



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One V-39 the good old faithful
 Jacobs 50 - Feeling sorry for itself in the garage
V-56 - back from the dead
Wurly 1900 - Blasting away
Rockola Empress - Gleaming like new
Seeburg JL - A bit tempremental (Like its owner)
Couple of Candy wall hangers
Couple of Seeburg Wallboxes
spitzme
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« Reply #10 on: February 22, 2008, 03:49:00 pm »

You gotta love it!  Do you guys know how much shipping would cost to florida? (estimate)
I would LOVE that cabinet!!!!  I have never tried to ship something that big.  Does the shipping company pick it up and pack it?
Thanks Tons Guys!!!
And Glen... you da man!
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SIGNGUY
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« Reply #11 on: February 22, 2008, 04:51:04 pm »

There is a forward Air in Sandiego , and also 5 location in Florida, Miami, Jacksonville, Orlando, Pensacola and Tampa.

If Glen is near SanDiego or LA and could get it there, they strap it to a pallet and you pick up at the nearest terminal near you... it's empy so should ship fairily cheap.. I am shipping a candy machine to the East Coast that weighs 140lbs and is about the same size for around 90.00

Good luck
www.forwardair.com
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SIGNGUY
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Stoner Jr Candy Machine
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Lotsa Coke Signs
Jim
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« Reply #12 on: February 23, 2008, 07:27:22 am »

spitzme,

Where in Fla are you located...?
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My six cents,

Jim

spitzme
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« Reply #13 on: February 23, 2008, 07:39:37 am »

Tampa....

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loman4ec
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« Reply #14 on: February 23, 2008, 08:04:30 am »

Yep forward air should be around $100 or you can use NAVL and it is about $350 but they do door to door. It is worth that to not have to fool with the metal work.
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spitzme
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« Reply #15 on: February 23, 2008, 10:38:34 am »

Where are you located Glen?
-Mike

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collecture
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« Reply #16 on: February 23, 2008, 11:10:26 am »

Glen is in Ventura, CA I believe.
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sodaworks
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« Reply #17 on: February 24, 2008, 11:08:13 am »

Yep, Glen's in Ventura, Ca.
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #18 on: February 24, 2008, 12:26:18 pm »

      I drive to L.A. once a month to pick up inventory, I guess I could drop off
to Fwd Air on my way.
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Glen
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« Reply #19 on: February 24, 2008, 01:29:15 pm »



Hey Glen... Why not go the whole hog and restore the thing for him...

Its great to see someone giving a new guy a "leg up" in his new hobby.
You guys are really good at that...

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One V-39 the good old faithful
 Jacobs 50 - Feeling sorry for itself in the garage
V-56 - back from the dead
Wurly 1900 - Blasting away
Rockola Empress - Gleaming like new
Seeburg JL - A bit tempremental (Like its owner)
Couple of Candy wall hangers
Couple of Seeburg Wallboxes
spitzme
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« Reply #20 on: February 24, 2008, 01:42:51 pm »

That would be INCREDIBLE, Glen!!!  However, I do like the comment that you should just go ahead and restore the whole thing for me. Shocked)
When you have a date in mind that you will be going to LA, let me know and I will make all the arrangements with forward air.  I can't tell you how much I appreciate you going out of your way for a newbie, thanks very much!
-Mike
813-712-0999 cell
or spitzme@tampabay.rr.com
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Ltransam
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« Reply #21 on: February 24, 2008, 09:48:28 pm »



 Yea, Glen's Great !!
                              And I'm sure he has Room in the PASSANGER SIDE of the T-Bird . laugh laugh .Sorry Glen It was stillthe funnest dang thing I ever saw


                                                                     Leonard  laugh
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spitzme
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« Reply #22 on: March 01, 2008, 08:08:26 pm »

Hey Guys
Is there a special rectangular screwdriver bit that you need to unscrew the bolts?
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sodaworks
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« Reply #23 on: March 01, 2008, 08:31:25 pm »

You can buy it from Sears, Napa auto parts.
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS
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spitzme
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« Reply #24 on: March 02, 2008, 08:37:00 am »

Thanks! biggrin
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spitzme
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« Reply #25 on: March 04, 2008, 08:08:40 am »

how do you recommend removing the old paint and surface rust?  Glass beads, sand blasting?  chemicals?  Also, the decals look like they are painted on, are they or is it a decal?
Thanks
-Mike
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davethebirdman
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« Reply #26 on: March 04, 2008, 09:57:15 am »


I would blast the machine... Others here will tell you exactly what gritt to use.
Are you going to do it yourself or have it done for you??

The decals come either in water release or vinyal (hate that word) Personally I prefer the later.
They are available from Funtronics so don't work about losing them. Having played around with decals
this weekend make sure you have a lot of patience and no kids under your feet when applying them.
Especially the water release ones.

Dave
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One V-39 the good old faithful
 Jacobs 50 - Feeling sorry for itself in the garage
V-56 - back from the dead
Wurly 1900 - Blasting away
Rockola Empress - Gleaming like new
Seeburg JL - A bit tempremental (Like its owner)
Couple of Candy wall hangers
Couple of Seeburg Wallboxes
RC kid
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« Reply #27 on: March 04, 2008, 10:33:49 am »

I prefer sand blasting or media blasting. The thick metal on these old machines hold up well to the abuse dished out by sand blasting. The plus it creates a good base for your new paint to adhere to. Another of benefit is the fact that a good blasting gets out all of the small stuff in the hard to reach areas, like the area underneath where the compressor is housed. And sand blasting will remove all of the rust. You will find holes where you thought solid metal existed before. Which is better to find now then a year after you painted your prized Coca-Cola machine.

Chemical stripping also works, but it is extremely messy and it is an absolute must that all chemical residues are removed prior to painting. Stripper and paint don't mix so well. And chemical stripping doesn't handle the rust issue. Rust must be removed, either by sand or by torch.

I am taking my projects to a local boy how can blast a machine in two hours and the cost usually runs around $75.00 for a Junior and $125.00 for a larger machine such as a Vendo 110. The best part of it all is that I don't have to sweat so much when doing it this way. A good chemical bath will run you around half that amount, if not more, and you will have a huge mess to clean up and dispose of. I think the current price of a quality stripper somewhere between $17 and $22 a gallon depending on where you get it. And I use stripper every now and then.

I bought a decent paint gun at the paint shop for $65.00. Believe me, you can do most paint and body stuff in your back yard and you do not need an expensive gun. I even paint out side, but this requires spraying the yard prior to laying the top coat so as to keep the bugs out of my final product.

Good luck
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #28 on: March 04, 2008, 11:26:12 am »

      Mike....I'm ready to ship off this 27 cabinet to you, did you get my last e-mail?
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Glen
spitzme
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« Reply #29 on: March 04, 2008, 12:03:13 pm »

No I must have missed it or maybe my computer filtered it ... who knows...   
That is GREAT news!  I can send you a money order asap for the shipping and handling..
Did you get my email from my tampabay account with directions to the shipping place?
Feel free to contact me directly at spitzme@tampabay.rr.com
I cant tell you how much I appreciate this!
-Mike

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Pat Pixley
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« Reply #30 on: March 04, 2008, 03:13:20 pm »

I would have it soda blasted  low heat no warping,
that will remove the paint & decals & light rust
the heavy rust then sand blast those area's.

 That what I had done to my 55 slider
inside & out.

  Just my thoughts
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spitzme
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« Reply #31 on: March 04, 2008, 07:49:50 pm »

Thanks Dave, RC and Pat for your ideas and feedback!  I am going to check around and see if I can get someone to blast it before undertaking it myself.  I appreciate the info on painting it yourself... how do the rest of you paint your machines?  Is the inside just cleaned or do I need to spray the inside silver wheel with paint as well?
Sorry for all of the "novice" questions... but I am what I am!   biggrin
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RC kid
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« Reply #32 on: March 04, 2008, 08:24:56 pm »

keep asking them. The answers you are getting are helping me in my projects as well.
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GreginTex
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« Reply #33 on: March 04, 2008, 08:37:12 pm »