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Author Topic: Fixed it till it broke.  (Read 294 times)
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Guest
« on: April 23, 2004, 09:48:07 pm »
Got a tired G.E. a while back, ran the bugs out of electrical/mechanical. Cap tube frosted to evap with no change on other side. Sytem low. Got the quest, installed service valve, had guy transfer hot shot to quest can (differential transfer, guess'in 3-4ozs), Installed quest in 4 sessions monitoring frost line, perfect amount according to frost on evap, just at end. Ran perfect 24 hours then overload began trippin and no more compressor run. No leaks. Is this just my kinda luck or did I leave something out?
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johnieG
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Soda Jerks
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« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2004, 11:13:51 am »
If the system was just low on a charge, why did you add the stop leak? if the system had been contaminated with moisture
the oil may have sludge up, also although the hotshot (414B) is compatable with any residual R12, if the system was still
somewhat charged ( even on the low side) you may have overcharged the system & stressed the old compressor to the point of overload...just my theory you should really use a gauge to determine charge, always better to under charge that to over-charge. I shoot for 25 psi on the low side (evaporator)

you could try using a start-booster like a three-in-one & see if it'll kick the compressor over (if it's just stuck)   ':O'
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Yea, 220...221, whatever it takes.
globalcompressors
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Global Compressors (Eric)
« Reply #2 on: April 25, 2004, 02:13:27 pm »
25 psi is too high. If you have an ambient temperature of
75 degrees or so, you only need to charge between 18and 22 psi. When the box reaches temperature, 38-40 degrees or so,
you're only looking for around 8-10 psi. Now, that could change if you replace the compressor, different physical size, or even desplacement. At that point, you have altered the preformance of the refrigeration system. If you have kept the orginal compressor and the charge is low, a freon "bump" is in order. The R414 freon is fine. Be sure not to overcharge it. Using a guage is really the only way to be sure. Make sure the compressor cycle "off" time is a minimum of 3-5 minutes.
It takes this long for the pressures to equalize allowing the compressor to start without being under a "load". These type of compressor(s) are medium temperature, low torque machines and will "trip" the overload if there is still positive pressure on the high side over the low side.


Eric
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Cooling the World, one machine at a time...really!
Guest
« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2004, 09:37:29 pm »
As advised, and by common sense, any sytem that is down has a leak, albiet a manifestion of many months. I decided to take care of both with the transfer of about the only chemicals (for this application) that I could obtain without a note from Ceaser. I am inclined to agree that the system now appears to be overcharged. I propose to get another can of quest (guy said about 10 on his vacum gauge), and remove about half of what I installed. Then try and get compressor to run. The good news is that if none of this works, I now must remove system for a detailed R&R. The two questions that I have are: #1 Must I reinstall r12 with a replacement compressor? #2 Would I be better off to have this unit shop overhauled or replaced? Many thanks for your advice/comments. I have repaired lots of equipment over the years however this is the first go around with the chemical heat exchanger.
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